Thursday, February 3, 2011

"The Esthetics Room - What exactly am I doing to you?" Part 3 - Why did I just ask you that?

You have arrived at your skin care appointment, filled out your paper work, stared at my facial machine, changed your clothes and then laid down.  Now, I cover your eyes, shine the bright light over you and start examining your skin. 

Pretty simple, right?  Nope.

Now, I start asking you weird questions...
Have you been eating allot of fatty foods?
Do you drink enough water?
How is your digestion?
Do you eliminate on a regular basis?
Do you touch your face excessively?
Are you lactose intolerant? 
Do you eat enough fruits and vegetables?
Etc.…….

Allot of times, clients find these questions a bit strange.  Then, they start to think about it and realize I’m right.  They have been eating allot of not so good food lately…they have IBS….they do not eat dairy because it makes them sick….they live with a smoker….they have gum disease….so on a so forth.   

How did I know?  No, I am not psychic or is it magic.  Your face is the gateway to allot of knowledge concerning your body and it has been used for hundreds of years to figure out troubled areas of the body.

The Chinese have always been known for their alternative medicine and believing that “the part contains the whole”.   The history of face mapping can be traced back to the 6th century BC.  Since then, the Chinese have believed the face can be a map to the entire body and can tell your past, present and future.  They apply this principle to every aspect of life, be it heath or luck, but we are going to focus on the health aspect. 

When I say “past, present and future” of your health, I am referring to past and present medical issues and times of life, such as child birth, asthma, liver problems, poor diet and so forth.   Different sections of your face correlate to different organs of the body.  When the body is distressed, many times the symptoms, unbeknownst to you, reveal themselves on your face, in the form of pustules (pimples), comedones (blackheads), milia (white heads), rashes, redness, hyperpigmentation (darkening of the skin), sallowness (yellowing/graying of the skin) and wrinkles. 
Chinese Face Map
So, how does this relate to me, the esthetician?   I am not a medical doctor.  I am not going to prescribe any medication to fix a serious medical issue or diagnose a medical condition.  What I can do is help you become the best you, starting by pointing out key stresses on your body and helping you live a better life, therefore improve the condition of your skin, the main reason you came to see me.  


Face Mapping for Skincare 
The face is split into two halves with 7 sections on each side.  Even though the areas are mirrored, each section is referred to individually.  I will be referring to the areas of the face by their position and their “zones” (as numbered by Dermalogica for easy reference).  With in each zone, I will be discussing what I am looking for, what is usually deemed as the cause of the issues and what the Chinese diagnosis is for each area.  


(PS....the "diagnosis" is not meant to be a medical diagnosis...again, this is only part of everything that goes into how our body works and responds to life....everyone is different.)
Dermalogica's Face Map
Left and Right Sides of the Forehead (Zones 1&3)
Signs searched for: congestion under the skin (bumps) 
                                   acne 
                                   dehydration
                                   horizontal lines
Traditionally caused by:  poor removal of make-up
                                          daily oil/dirt
                                          hair products
Chinese Diagnosis:  Digestion/Gallbladder/Liver
Possible Remedies:  lower consumption of fatty food
                                     greater intake of water/detoxifying teas


Food too rich in fats can cause you gallbladder, the organ responsible for releasing bile, created by the liver to break down the fats for digestion, to over work.  The excessive work can show its self as rough, bumpy skin and occasionally a break out, frequently believed to be caused by the excess fat in the system. 



Between the Eyebrows (Zone 2)
Signs searched for: congestion 
                                   redness
                                   dryness
                                   vertical lines
Traditionally caused by: excessive oil production 
                                         reaction to waxing 
                                         furrowing of the brow 
                                         possible lactose intolerance
Chinese Diagnosis:  Liver/Stomach
Possible Remedies:  lower consumption of meat, dairy and alcohol
                                     lower stress
                                     increase water/detoxifying tea. 

When the liver and stomach are stressed and imbalanced, the health of your skin, in general deteriorates.  Toxins from fatty foods, too much alcohol, and stress can cause a hormone and metabolic imbalance in the body.     

Right and Left Ears (Zones 4&10)
Signs searched for:  comedones inside the ears
heat/redness
Traditionally caused by: outer ear not cleaned thoroughly
      telephone equipment not clean
      metal allergies
      excessive wine and caffeine intake 
Chinese Diagnosis:  Liver/Adrenal Glads
Possible Remedies:  destress,
 eat a balanced diet

The adrenal glads sit on top of the kidneys and produce a hormone called cortisol.  Cortisol is released when you are stressed or have low blood sugar levels.  High levels of cortisol are unfortunately linked to collagen loss in the skin, because excess sugar has been proven to break down collagen.  


Right and Left Cheeks (Zones 5&9)
Signs searched for:  broken capillaries
milia
hyperpigmentation
sensitivity
pustules
comedones
Traditionally caused by: allergies and sinus problems
                                          pore clogging ingredients in products
                                          smoking
                                          improper hygiene (touching face, phones, etc)
Chinese Diagnosis: Lungs/Gums and Teeth
Possible Remedies:  stop smoking
                                     keep up with your oral hygiene
                                     wash face properly to remove product

Generally smokers or those with asthma, show the most signs of problems in this region of the face.  But, unfortunately, there is a host of issues that can also be attributed to issues in this area of the face.  Too much dairy, can cause an increase in mucus productions which can irritate the lungs.  Also, you may be developing a bronchial infection if this area suddenly becomes red and dry.

Right and Left Eyes (Zones 6&8)
Signs searched for:  milia
                                    fine lines
                                    dark circles
                                    puffiness
                                    sensitized skin
                                    irritation/dryness on eyelids
Traditionally caused by:  irritation to make-up and products
                                          environmental allergies
                                          poor lymph flow
                                          insufficient sun protection
Chinese Diagnosis: Kidneys/Sinuses
Possible Remedies: better diet
                                    use of sun protection
                                    increase water consumption

Overworking, stress, lack of sleep, and too much caffeine can cause your kidneys and liver to over work.  If under your eye is puffy and blue, you are working too hard, overworking your adrenal glands and causing an imbalance in the fluid of your body.  This can also apply to the inner corner of the eye has a sunken, dark blue look to it.  Sun damage can also cause dark circles and milia to appear in this area.
Nose and Mouth (Zone 7)
Signs searched for:  comedones
                                    broken capillaries
                                    hyperpigmentation
                                    increased hair growth
                                    fine lines
Traditionally caused by: over/improper extractions
                                         clogging ingredients in products 
                                         excess oil productions
                                         poor exfoliation
                                         oral contraceptives/smoking
Chinese Diagnosis: Heart/Reproduction/ Stomach
Possible Remedies: change medication
                                    stop smoking
                                    change skincare routine
                                    relaxation

The mouth the main area where issues with the stomach and upper intestines emerges .  Milia and a “bumpy” feeling under the skin and blotchy areas may indicate a yeast infection, too much dairy or sugar in the diet. If the lower lip protrudes, this could indicate a sluggish colon.  If the top lip is cracked, red, or has spots at the corner, this could indicate high stomach acidity.  If the nose is red and slightly bulbous, this may indicate high blood pressure.  

Left and Right Sides of Chin (Zones 11&13)
Signs searched for:  undersurface congestion
                                    comedones
                                    papules
                                    pustules
Traditionally caused by: constant touching
                                          improperly removing products
Chinese Diagnosis: Ovaries
Possible Remedies: better cleansing routine
                                    change/try birth control

The ovaries produce estrogen and progesterone.  Estrogen helps maintain the strength of the blood vessels and skin and also aides in maintaining the level of collagen.   Progesterone helps to maintain the elasticity of the skin.  During our menstrual cycle, when estrogen levels drop, androgens, male sex hormones, are the dominate hormone and increase the production of sebum, generally resulting in increased acne.  During menopause, when both estrogen and progesterone decrease, the skin rapidly starts to sag and lose its resiliency.   

Center of Chin (Zone 12)
Signs searched for:  under-surface congestion
                                    pustules
                                    comedones
Traditionally caused by: improper cleansing
                                          excessive touching of face
Chinese Diagnosis: Small Intestine
Possible Remedies: better skincare routine
                                    more conscious of habits

Allot of times a poor diet and possible food allergies can show symptoms in the form of acne and comedones on the chin.  Also, if the chin is red and swollen, this could be a sign of too much candida in the digestive tract.  Candia is yeast that occurs naturally in the body.  When something upsets the balance of bacteria in the body, this allows the yeast to grow and take over the healthy microorganisms and cause problems in the digestive system.

 Neck and Chest (Zone 14)
Signs searched for:  pustules
                                    hyperpigmentation
                                    horizontal lines
                                    loss of elasticity
                                    redness/allergies
Traditionally caused by: fragrance
                                          insufficient sun protection
                                          flushing due to hormones
Chinese Diagnosis: Stress
Possible Remedies:  relaxation
                                     use sunscreen

As discussed in previous zones, stress increases the production of cortisol by your adrenal glands, causing a decrease in collagen. Combined with lack of sun protection, this is the main part of rapid aging on the neck and chest.  


I know this is allot of information to take in, but I hope it gave you a brief glimpse into what I do and what could be the cause of your skin ailment.  So, next time I ask you when your last bowl movement was, you will not look at me so strangely!