"The Esthetics Room - What exactly am I doing to you?" Part 3 - Why did I just ask you that?

You have arrived at your skin care appointment, filled out your paper work, stared at my facial machine, changed your clothes and then laid down.  Now, I cover your eyes, shine the bright light over you and start examining your skin. 

Pretty simple, right?  Nope.

Now, I start asking you weird questions...

Have you been eating allot of fatty foods?

Do you drink enough water?

How is your digestion?

Do you eliminate on a regular basis?

Do you touch your face excessively?

Are you lactose intolerant? 

Do you eat enough fruits and vegetables?

Etc.…….

Allot of times, clients find these questions a bit strange.  Then, they start to think about it and realize I’m right.  They have been eating allot of not so good food lately…they have IBS….they do not eat dairy because it makes them sick….they live with a smoker….they have gum disease….so on a so forth.   

How did I know?  No, I am not psychic or is it magic.  Your face is the gateway to allot of knowledge concerning your body and it has been used for hundreds of years to figure out troubled areas of the body.

The Chinese have always been known for their alternative medicine and believing that “the part contains the whole”.   The history of face mapping can be traced back to the 6^th century BC.  Since then, the Chinese have believed the face can be a map to the entire body and can tell your past, present and future.  They apply this principle to every aspect of life, be it heath or luck, but we are going to focus on the health aspect. 

When I say “past, present and future” of your health, I am referring to past and present medical issues and times of life, such as child birth, asthma, liver problems, poor diet and so forth.   Different sections of your face correlate to different organs of the body.  When the body is distressed, many times the symptoms, unbeknownst to you, reveal themselves on your face, in the form of pustules (pimples), comedones (blackheads), milia (white heads), rashes, redness, hyperpigmentation (darkening of the skin), sallowness (yellowing/graying of the skin) and wrinkles. 

Chinese Face Map

So, how does this relate to me, the esthetician?   I am not a medical doctor.  I am not going to prescribe any medication to fix a serious medical issue or diagnose a medical condition.  What I can do is help you become the best you, starting by pointing out key stresses on your body and helping you live a better life, therefore improve the condition of your skin, the main reason you came to see me.  

Face Mapping for Skincare 

The face is split into two halves with 7 sections on each side.  Even though the areas are mirrored, each section is referred to individually.  I will be referring to the areas of the face by their position and their “zones” (as numbered by Dermalogica for easy reference).  With in each zone, I will be discussing what I am looking for, what is usually deemed as the cause of the issues and what the Chinese diagnosis is for each area.  


(PS....the "diagnosis" is not meant to be a medical diagnosis...again, this is only part of everything that goes into how our body works and responds to life....everyone is different.)

Dermalogica's Face Map

Left and Right Sides of the Forehead (Zones 1&3)

Signs searched for: congestion under the skin (bumps) 
                                   acne 

                                   dehydration
                                   horizontal lines

Traditionally caused by:  poor removal of make-up
                                          daily oil/dirt
                                          hair products

Chinese Diagnosis:  Digestion/Gallbladder/Liver

Possible Remedies:  lower consumption of fatty food
                                     greater intake of water/detoxifying teas


Food too rich in fats can cause you gallbladder, the organ responsible for releasing bile, created by the liver to break down the fats for digestion, to over work.  The excessive work can show its self as rough, bumpy skin and occasionally a break out, frequently believed to be caused by the excess fat in the system. 

Between the Eyebrows (Zone 2)

Signs searched for: congestion 

                                   redness

                                   dryness

                                   vertical lines

Traditionally caused by: excessive oil production 

                                         reaction to waxing 

                                         furrowing of the brow 

                                         possible lactose intolerance

Chinese Diagnosis:  Liver/Stomach

Possible Remedies:  lower consumption of meat, dairy and alcohol

                                     lower stress

                                     increase water/detoxifying tea. 

When the liver and stomach are stressed and imbalanced, the health of your skin, in general deteriorates.  Toxins from fatty foods, too much alcohol, and stress can cause a hormone and metabolic imbalance in the body.     

Right and Left Ears (Zones 4&10)

Signs searched for:  comedones inside the ears

heat/redness

Traditionally caused by: outer ear not cleaned thoroughly

      telephone equipment not clean

      metal allergies

      excessive wine and caffeine intake 

Chinese Diagnosis:  Liver/Adrenal Glads

Possible Remedies:  destress,

 eat a balanced diet

The adrenal glads sit on top of the kidneys and produce a hormone called cortisol.  Cortisol is released when you are stressed or have low blood sugar levels.  High levels of cortisol are unfortunately linked to collagen loss in the skin, because excess sugar has been proven to break down collagen.  

Right and Left Cheeks (Zones 5&9)

Signs searched for:  broken capillaries

milia

hyperpigmentation

sensitivity

pustules

comedones

Traditionally caused by: allergies and sinus problems

                                          pore clogging ingredients in products

                                          smoking

                                          improper hygiene (touching face, phones, etc)

Chinese Diagnosis: Lungs/Gums and Teeth

Possible Remedies:  stop smoking

                                     keep up with your oral hygiene

                                     wash face properly to remove product

Generally smokers or those with asthma, show the most signs of problems in this region of the face.  But, unfortunately, there is a host of issues that can also be attributed to issues in this area of the face.  Too much dairy, can cause an increase in mucus productions which can irritate the lungs.  Also, you may be developing a bronchial infection if this area suddenly becomes red and dry.

Right and Left Eyes (Zones 6&8)

Signs searched for:  milia

                                    fine lines

                                    dark circles

                                    puffiness

                                    sensitized skin

                                    irritation/dryness on eyelids

Traditionally caused by:  irritation to make-up and products

                                          environmental allergies

                                          poor lymph flow

                                          insufficient sun protection

Chinese Diagnosis: Kidneys/Sinuses

Possible Remedies: better diet

                                    use of sun protection

                                    increase water consumption

Overworking, stress, lack of sleep, and too much caffeine can cause your kidneys and liver to over work.  If under your eye is puffy and blue, you are working too hard, overworking your adrenal glands and causing an imbalance in the fluid of your body.  This can also apply to the inner corner of the eye has a sunken, dark blue look to it.  Sun damage can also cause dark circles and milia to appear in this area.

Nose and Mouth (Zone 7)

Signs searched for:  comedones

                                    broken capillaries

                                    hyperpigmentation

                                    increased hair growth

                                    fine lines

Traditionally caused by: over/improper extractions

                                         clogging ingredients in products 

                                         excess oil productions

                                         poor exfoliation

                                         oral contraceptives/smoking

Chinese Diagnosis: Heart/Reproduction/ Stomach

Possible Remedies: change medication

                                    stop smoking

                                    change skincare routine

                                    relaxation

The mouth the main area where issues with the stomach and upper intestines emerges .  Milia and a “bumpy” feeling under the skin and blotchy areas may indicate a yeast infection, too much dairy or sugar in the diet. If the lower lip protrudes, this could indicate a sluggish colon.  If the top lip is cracked, red, or has spots at the corner, this could indicate high stomach acidity.  If the nose is red and slightly bulbous, this may indicate high blood pressure.  

Left and Right Sides of Chin (Zones 11&13)

Signs searched for:  undersurface congestion

                                    comedones

                                    papules

                                    pustules

Traditionally caused by: constant touching

                                          improperly removing products

Chinese Diagnosis: Ovaries

Possible Remedies: better cleansing routine

                                    change/try birth control

The ovaries produce estrogen and progesterone.  Estrogen helps maintain the strength of the blood vessels and skin and also aides in maintaining the level of collagen.   Progesterone helps to maintain the elasticity of the skin.  During our menstrual cycle, when estrogen levels drop, androgens, male sex hormones, are the dominate hormone and increase the production of sebum, generally resulting in increased acne.  During menopause, when both estrogen and progesterone decrease, the skin rapidly starts to sag and lose its resiliency.   

Center of Chin (Zone 12)

Signs searched for:  under-surface congestion

                                    pustules

                                    comedones

Traditionally caused by: improper cleansing

                                          excessive touching of face

Chinese Diagnosis: Small Intestine

Possible Remedies: better skincare routine

                                    more conscious of habits

Allot of times a poor diet and possible food allergies can show symptoms in the form of acne and comedones on the chin.  Also, if the chin is red and swollen, this could be a sign of too much candida in the digestive tract.  Candia is yeast that occurs naturally in the body.  When something upsets the balance of bacteria in the body, this allows the yeast to grow and take over the healthy microorganisms and cause problems in the digestive system.

 Neck and Chest (Zone 14)

Signs searched for:  pustules

                                    hyperpigmentation

                                    horizontal lines

                                    loss of elasticity

                                    redness/allergies

Traditionally caused by: fragrance

                                          insufficient sun protection

                                          flushing due to hormones

Chinese Diagnosis: Stress

Possible Remedies:  relaxation

                                     use sunscreen

As discussed in previous zones, stress increases the production of cortisol by your adrenal glands, causing a decrease in collagen. Combined with lack of sun protection, this is the main part of rapid aging on the neck and chest.  

I know this is allot of information to take in, but I hope it gave you a brief glimpse into what I do and what could be the cause of your skin ailment.  So, next time I ask you when your last bowl movement was, you will not look at me so strangely!

"The Esthetics Room - What exactly am I doing to you?" Part 2 – The Machine

Tuesday, I answered many common questions that arise on a weekly basis.  Today, I am going to discuss what the “scary” equipment in my room is used for.

Not one person has walked into my room without commenting:

“What is that machine?”

“What is it used for?” 

“It looks like dental equipment.”

And, my favorite,

“Is that a device to torture someone?”

"That Machine" is generally referred to as a Multi-Functional Facial Machine (the title seems pretty obvious, I know).  Some estheticians have more parts on their machine, while others have less, but it’s generally used to aid in caring for your skin, during the facial process.  

My machine has 7 main functions.  I will cover what I use, most often.    

1.     The Vaporizer or Steamer

This is probably the most used item on a facial machine.  Many people are familiar with its calming sound and relaxing warm mist, but do you really know what it is doing? 

The steam serves 3 main purposes:

·         Softening the dead surface cells so they can be more easily removed.

·         Dilating the pores for better absorption of product or easier removal of debris.

·         Either activating a particular type of facial product or lessening the intensity of a facial product. 

To be honest, a client either loves the feel of the steam or despises it. No, all facials do not have to utilize the steam, but if you are in need of extractions, it will make my job allot easier and effective if I use it. Also, never be afraid to speak up if the steam is too strong for you, I can always reposition the steamer

2.    The Massage/Facial Brush

The brush is a wonderful alternative, for exfoliation, to a rough facial scrub or as great deep cleansing tool.  The brush is also produces a pleasant feeling on the skin.

The larger brush head is great for deep cleansing large areas, such as the decollate (aka your chest) or back.  The smaller brush head is perfect for the delicate eye area.  

  When in use, the facial brush should never feel excessively rough or unpleasant.  If you have delicate (thin) skin or many distended capillaries (broken blood vessels), the face brush should not be used.   

3.    High Frequency

I’m sure many of you have asked to get “zapped” before, if you have a blemish, or have heard other people discuss it.  Getting “zapped” is having the high frequency used on you. 

High frequency helps to stimulate blood circulation, to help products penetrate deeper and aid in anti-aging and helps to oxygenate the skin and produce a germicidal effect, important after extractions. You may feel a prick or a tingling sensation while the implement is in use, but it should never hurt.  

*A little science lesson for your day.* 

The high frequency electrodes are made of glass, contain either argon (violet/blue) or neon (orange/red) gases and come in 3 basic shapes.

·         Pointed – the shape most people think of when getting “zapped”.  The electrode contains neon gas.  The neon gas is used for its germicidal properties.  The pointed shape is perfect for spot treating acne or reaching smaller areas, like the sides of the nose. 

·         Spoon – contains argon gas and is used to stimulate the facial area.  It’s great as an anti-aging tool and to help masks absorb more quickly into the skin. 

·         Mushroom – can contain either argon or neon gases.  Its flat surface makes it ideal to treat a large acneic are or penetrate a mask.

4.    Galvanic Current

This treatment is fabulous to aide in disincrustation ( loosening of debris in the pores for extractsions), “closing” pores after a treatment and helping serums/water soluble products penetrate deeper into the skin. 

           

Galvanic current is an actual electrical current that flows through the body.  There is a positive and negative setting. 

No, I am not going to electrocute you, but you will have to hold a grounding electrode while I am performing the service.   If you \have any metal in your body or a pace maker, if you are pregnant or are on a high dose of anti-depressants, I will not perform this service on you.  If you have any metallic fillings in your mouth, you might have a slight taste of metal during this procedure. 

There are two main types of electrodes used in galvanic:

      ·         Facial Electrode 

Generally used on the negative setting of the galvanic machine.  The negative setting causes the pores to open and allows an alkaline solution (the Scaling Fluid from Dermalogica) to penetrate deeper and loosen the hardened sebum in your pores, making extractions easier. (Sebum is the oil your body naturally produces to coat your skin and hair.  It tends to mix with your sweat, lipids and dirt and, at times, gets trapped in your pores.)

Example of a Roller Electrode.

·         Roller Electrode

Generally used on the positive setting of the galvanic machine.  The positive setting causes the pores to constrict, firming the skin.  It also aides in the penetration of water soluble products and soothes the skin after extractions.

After a treatment, you will notice a cleaner, brighter complexion!

5.    Magnifying Lamp and Woods Lamp

Everyone knows what the magnifying lamp is…..it’s the round, bright light with the magnifying glass in the middle, that allows me to see what is going on with your skin, up close and personal. 

But, many of you have probably never heard of a Woods Lamp, before.  The Woods Lamp uses a violet florescent light that, when shined on the skin, illuminates certain substances on the skin and in the pores for better skin evaluation.  

As you can see, the sun damage or "age spots" are easier to see under the light.

For example:

oil = yellow color

dehydrated skin = violet color

sun damage = brown

I will be using the Woods Lamp in most of my facial treatments, this month, so everyone will become familiar with this fabulous tool! 

So, in conclusion, never be afraid of the 

“Scary Machine” in my room….

it’s only there to help, not harm!

A stretchy situation.......

Today I have been working on my second segment for work,  "The Esthetics Room - What exactly am I doing to you?" Part 2 – The Machine.....but it's still a work in progress.  Should be up tomorrow afternoon, but now, I'm starting a new experiment....Bio-Oil.

I had my bouncing baby girl, 5 years ago.  Not only did I start to have stretch marks at 10 weeks, but they continued to get worse over the next 30 weeks....it was not pretty.  I've tried allot of things such as StriVectin SD (http://www.strivectin.com), Eminence Yam and Pumpkin Professional Peel (http://www.eminenceorganics.com/products/index.php?paid=121), Glyton's KP kit (http://www.glytone-usa.com/search/beauty.html), time, working out, the stupid cocoa butter....nothing has worked so far.

So, I've decided to try the natural alternate, which seems to be more and more popular, Bio-Oil.  The active ingrediants are as follows:

• Vitamin A (improves elasticity)
• Vitamin E (increases moisture content) 
• Calendula, Lavender, Chomomile and Rosemary Oils (calming and clarifying)
• PurCellin Oil (delivery system to aid in the abortion of the other active products) 

The directions state to apply to clean dry skin two times a day for at least 3 months.....sounds involved, but I am  willing to try.

Today, Day 1 (My stomach is bloated....don't judge!)
Let us see how it really works!  

A Month of Healthy Skin

So, I am starting a series at work for the next four weeks, entitled, "A Month of Healthy Skin"....the following it today's post for work on Facebook.

“A Month of Healthy Skin,” is a concept, I came up with, to introduce skincare novices to my services and to help my current clients get to know more about what I do and about the skincare line we carry and love, Dermalogica.  Every week, for the next 4 weeks, I will be covering a different topic and hopefully answering some questions, you may have, along the way. 

This Week's Topic:  

"The Esthetics Room - What exactly am I doing to you?" 

Part 1

This week, I am going to cover some key elements concerning what an esthetican does, what happens during a facial and what the “scary” equipment in my room is for. 

Today…the basics…questions I am asked, at least once a week. 

Q: What are you?

A:  I am an esthetician or skin therapist.  I was trained at an esthetics school, 10 years ago.  I perform services such as facials, body treatments, full body waxing and make-up.  I cannot diagnose a medical condition or perform microdermabrasion or medical grade peels (in the state of Maryland, without a doctor on staff), but I can spot issues that should be referred to a medical doctor. 

Q:  What is a facial?

A:  A facial cleanses, exfoliates and nourishes the skin to promote facial skin health. 

There are 5 basic steps to a facial:

1.    Skin Analysis – the face is examined in order to determine the course of treatment for each client.  I customize every facial to suit your particular needs.

2.    Cleansing/Exfoliation – after cleansing, I will perform an exfoliation, in order to remove the dead skin cells and impurities from your face.  Some exfoliations are more intense than others and again, they are chosen based on your skin’s specific needs.

3.    Extractions – not everyone needs them and not everyone will get them, but extractions remove the debris from the pores of your face, be it a comedone (aka a blackhead), a papule (aka a white head), or a pustule (aka a pimple), it will be removed in a safe and sanitary way. 

4.    Mask – masks either calm, hydrate or treat your skin. 

5.    Massage – the facial massage is essential in toning and tightening the skin, but it also helps to increase the absorption of the product. 

These steps can be rearranged, taken out or repeated to suit a particular clients needs and goals. 

Q:  Why do I have to tell you what medication I am on?

A:  Some medications cause the very skin condition that is bothing you and many medications are contraindications (condition which makes a particular treatment or procedure inadvisable) to certain skincare procedures.

There are many medications which make the skin more sensitive to exfoliation, heat, light and touch.  A few popular examples :

·         Retin-A, a popular medication used to treat acne and promote anti-aging, promotes peeling of the skin.  Not informing me of this medication could cause excessive dermabrasion (removing of skin) or even chemical burns. 

·         Antibiotics – a great way to treat many infections, but it also causes your skin to be more sensitive to heat, light and exfoliation.

·         Blood Pressure Medication – used to lower blood pressure, yes, but the ruddiness in your skin, which you have come in to take care of, may be related to your high blood pressure. 

·         Thyroid Medication – can not only cause your hair loss and temperature sensitivity, but it can also be the cause of your dry/dehydrated skin.   

Even if you do not want to be specific, please always tell me the general class of medication you are on, so I can give you the best experience possible. 

Q:  Will a facial make me break out?

A:  Yes and no……

Facials stimulate the skin, causing toxins, sebum/oil, and lymphatic fluid to move around.  This can cause a break-out, but generally only if you are prone to breaking out.  This is why I do not advice a person to have a facial within a week or two of an important event, especially if you have never had one before or if you are around your menstrual cycle. 

And finally,

Q:  How often should I have a facial?

A:  Rule of thumb, every 4-6 weeks.    

But, this can change according to your skincare goal. 

            Ace relief?                 2-3 weeks

            Anti-aging or drastic change?        2-3 weeks

            Do light skin care at home and rarely exfoliate on your own? 4-6 weeks

            Excellent about your at home skin routine and just need someone to check in        with?  8-12 weeks or once a season.

We will discuss what is best for you once we do your facial and evaluation!